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Fly Patterns

Bass & Trout Fly Patterns

Black Meat Whistle



The Meat Whistle (#4-8) is tied on a jig hook so that it rides hook point up. This fly is designed to be fished on the bottom and hopped along like a crayfish. Fish are used to seeing flies stripped through the water column but not hopped along the bottom. You can strip or dead-drift it as well. Many rivers have good populations of crayfish; however, they are often nocturnal or hidden under rocks so many fisherman are not aware of them.

Sizes and Colors (Click Here)

Meat Whistle Recipe:

Hook:  3/0-1/0 Daiichi 90 degree jig hook
Cone:  Black,size 3/0 (large),size 2/0(medium) size 1/0 (small)
Thread:  Black 140-denier Ultra Thread.
Ribbing: Blue or Copper Ultra wire or Brassie.
Wing:  Black rabbit strip.
Legs: Black with blue flake Sili Legs.
Flash: Black Holographic Flashabou
Collar: Black rabbit.
 

Also tied in olive and rust colors.
 

Designed by John Barr




Steelhead Fly Patterns

How to tie Moal Leech


Halloween MOAL

Original Design by Derek Fergus

 Halloween MOAL variation by Gary Elgear

 

 

Front Hook:       Mustad 3407 (This fly is even better when tied with front hook, just tie with an eyed shank - Mustad 34011 Stainless Steel Fly)

Trailing Hook:    Up eye octopus hook #6-#1/0

Thread:             Uni-Mono

Braided Core:    50lb Power Pro or similar product

Butt:                 Hot Orange Cross Cut Rabbit Strip

Body:                Black Cross Cut Rabbit Strip

Lateral Accent:  2-4 strands of Superflash or Flashabou

Head:               Hot Orange Cone or Bead

 

Tying Notes:  Gary Elgear ties his MOAL's using a variety of combinations.  His current favourites for steelhead are; black with a blue butt and all blue which works well in stained water.  An all pink version makes a fantastic Dolly Varden pattern. 

 

Nearly every west coast steelhead fly fisher considers two-handed or Spey rods the backbone of their presentation repertoire.  Once mastered, double handed rods offer fly fishers unparalleled versatility, allowing coverage of water only dreamed about with a single handed rod.  Steelhead fly fishers now reach greater distances and lies with a functional artistic elegance.  Two-handed rods also permit fly fishers to chuck enormous flies as well.  Gargantuan patterns re kindle latent steelehad memories of open ocean foraging as well as eliciting a territorial or aggressive responses once in the river.  Intruder style patterns have become steelhead standards, some resembling small birds in size.  Gary Elgear owner of Riverside Fly and Tackle is both a Spey rod disciple and monster pattern junkie.  He has a particular affliction for MOAL's.  Although I had seen MOAL's in the past it was Gary's demonstration at this years Fraser Valley Boat and Sportsman's show that rekindled my interest.  Swung under tension, MOAL leeches feature fantastic movement and solid hook ups. 

 

Designed and pioneered by American guide and industry sales rep, Derek Fergus, the MOAL features an ingenious combination of a short shank hook for a forward foundation, coupled with a loop of braided line for a core wrapped with cross cut rabbit strips.  Upon looking at his creation Derek christened it the Mother of All Leeches, hence the pattern's MOAL moniker.   Derek has also taken his 'strung out' fly philosophy to other genres including dry flies and nymphs with equally impressive results.  Derek's unique design enables fly tiers to create exceptionally long articulated flies without the negative effects associated with long shank hooks.  Compared to MOAL's long shank flies are lifeless. In battle steelhead lever extended shank flies to their full and complete advantage.  The MOAL's supple core and short shank trailing hook make them tough to shake. MOAL hooked steelhead do not have long shanks to sway the skirmish in their favour.  The small trailing hook also allows use of large flies in regions where hook gape restrictions may be in place.

 

At first MOAL's seem tricky to tie but after a couple of attempts the process is easily figured out.   To begin, place two fly tying vises in tandem, one behind the other approximately 3.5 inches apart.  For longer MOAL's increase the vise spacing or decrease the distance for micro MOAL's.  C-clamp style work best for holding the braided core in place during construction.  Pedestal base vises can be a source of frustration as they tend to wander around the tying bench.  Some vise styles do not allow the distance for the rear vise to grab the trailing hook.  In these instances use a loop of backing to allow working distance between the vises while maintaining tension on the Spectra Braid core.

 

For an average MOAL take about 6 inches of Spectra Braid, Dacron backing or any one of the braided super lines such as Spider Wire.  Make sure to use a good pair of cutters or sacrificial scissors when working with these braided lines.  Place the tag ends of the braid together forming a long narrow loop.  Take the loop end and slide it through an up eye octopus hook.  Pull the hook through the braided loop joining them together in loop to loop fashion.  Consider the fly design and how it swims as the hook can be inserted to ride point up and snag free.  For Gary's Halloween MOAL slide a large bead or cone onto a short shank ring eye hook.  Avoid using expensive hooks as the bend and point will be removed.  Insert the tag ends of the braided line through the rear of the bead and through the hook eye. Take the tag ends back along the shank back through the bead, doubling the braid along the shank.  Attach the tying thread behind the bead or cone and secure the braid along the shank and trim the tag ends.  Apply a coating of brushable Fisherman's Glue or Zap-A-Gap for added security. Place the small octopus hook into the jaws of the trailing vise or if necessary use a backing loop to extend the working distance while ensuring the braided core remains taut. 

 

With the hook and braid foundation complete take a section of cross cut rabbit and trim away ¼ inch of hair from the hide.  About one hook length up from the trailing hook trap the trimmed hide tag between the braided core strands.  Make sure the rabbit strip is positioned so the fur flows back.  Apply a thin coating of Zap-A-Gap or Fisherman's Glue to the hide tag.  Pinch the hide tag back against the main hide for a few seconds cementing them together.  Take care not to bond yourself in the process.  Palmer the rabbit strip forward in close touching turns to the rear of the bead.  Tie off and trim the excess.  Pull the rabbit tightly while palmering to ensure a durable fly.  Use the other hand to support the body as it is wound forward. The braided core may be coated with Super Glue prior wrapping for additional durability.  There is a risk however of stiffening the MOAL.  Adding Flashabou lateral lines provides an attractive shimmer.  Dub a small section of rabbit fur behind the bead to conceal and protect the finishing wraps.  Whip finish and apply head cement. Remove the MOAL remove from both vises and cut the hook bend and point from the front hook using a pair of side cutters.  The completed MOAL may seem stiff.  Don't worry, once wet the MOAL becomes its supple slender seductive self.

 

MOAL's have a myriad of configurations.  The Halloween MOAL features a hot orange butt.  Butts are easy to construct, typically occupying 1/4 to 1/3 the overall length of the fly.  Once the butt is complete use the Super Glue and pinch method to tie off the excess, no thread is needed.  Add the second color rabbit strip in the same manner as the butt and finish the MOAL.  The braided core can also be tied on using traditional tying methods.  Some tie along the braid core using dubbing loops to form their rabbit fur bodies.  This technique works well for Chernobyl sized MOAL's as the rabbit hide does not add unnecessary weight, an added bonus at the end of a day's casting.  Adding hen saddle pectoral fins and a spun and clipped deer hair head to an olive body black butt MOAL creates an impressive sculpin.  Dubbing loops can also be used with other materials such as marabou or grizzly marabou.  Small grizzly marabou MOAL's make fantastic leech or baitfish patterns.  Try blending Polar Chenille in with the rabbit for subtle highlights throughout the fly or finishing the MOAL with a schlappen hackle.  Tiny rattles can even be integrated. Rattles provide audio attraction while providing internal buoyancy augmenting fly movement.  To add a rattle sandwich it between the braided strands near the rear of the front hook.  Bind the rattle in place with tying thread and coat with Super Glue.  Continue building the MOAL from there. 

 

Fly tyers are always encouraged to think outside the box.  MOAL's are not just for steelhead. Other fish love MOAL's too.  The MOAL concept has a wide range of applications for the innovative fly tyer.  By adjusting materials and overall fly size a host of opportunities becomes apparent including leeches, baitfish patterns even damsel nymphs.

 

Tying Instructions

 

 

1) Take approximately 6-inches of Spectra Braid or Dacron and fold it in half forming a narrow loop at one end.  Slide the narrow loop through the eye of a short shank octopus style hook.  Bring the octopus hook back up through the Spectra braid securing it to the hook loop to loop fashion. 

 

 

2) Slide a hot orange bead onto a short shank ring eye hook.  Slide the tag ends of the Spectra Braid loop through the rear of the bead.  Insert the tag ends through the hook eye back along the shank and through the front of the bead.  The tag ends should be pointing back out of the rear of the bead when finished.  Place the front hook into the jaws of the vise.  With the bead tight against the hook eye start the tying thread directly behind the bead.  Bind the tag ends securely along the shank, trim the excess.  Coat the shank with Zap-A-Gap or brushable Fisherman's Glue for added security.  Leave the tying thread hanging at the rear of the bead.  Set up a second vise about 3.5 inches behind the vise holding the short shank hook.  Place the rear hook into the jaws of the vise.  Adjust the distance between the 2 vises so the Spectra Braid is tight.  If the vise configuration does not permit the hooks to be secured easily a loop of fly line backing held in place by the rear vise can be used to support the trailing hook as is shown here.

 

 

3) Take a section of hot orange cross cut rabbit trim ¼ inch from the end where the rabbit flows back away from the front of the fly.  Insert the trimmed end between the Spectra Braid strands approximately 1 shank length forward from the eye of the rear hook. 

 

 

4) Apply Zap-A-Gap or brushable Fisherman's Glue to the back side of the trimmed tag.  Fold the tag back against the main hide around one strand of the Spectra Braid core and pinch together to secure.  Be careful not to bond yourself to the rabbit strip.

 

 

5) Using tight wraps palmer the hot orange rabbit strip forward forming a butt that occupies approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of overall fly.  Coat the hide of the butt material at the tie off point with Zap-A-Gap or brushable Fisherman's Glue.  Pinch the hide against itself bonding it to the Spectra Braid core.  Trim the excess rabbit strip.

 

 

6) Prepare, insert and sandwich the black cross cut hide in the same manner as the hot orange butt material.  Apply Zap-A-Gap or brushable Fisherman's Glue to the back side of the tag and pinch back against the main hide securing it in place.  Palmer the black rabbit strip in tight close touching turns forward onto the front hook to the rear of the bead.  Tie off and trim the excess rabbit hide. 

 

 

7) Tie in 2 strands of Flashabou or Superflash along the sides of the fly.  Dub a thin covering of black rabbit fur from the cross cut strip behind the bead to conceal and protect the thread.  Whip finish and apply head cement.  Remove the hooks from both vises.  Using a pair of side cutters remove the bend and point from the front hook.




Autumn Gold

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 8
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - hot orange hackle fibers
  • Rib - fine oval gold tinsel
  • Body - antique gold seal fur or goat fur
  • Hackle - hot orange
  • Wing - white polar bear or bucktail
  • Cheeks - jungle cock eyes (optional)

Bella Cooler Bomber

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 1/0 - 6
  • Thread - fl. fire-orange
  • Tail - fl. orange nylon tow (egg yarn) short
  • Rib - fine flat silver tinsel
  • Body - fl. yellow chenille
  • Wings - fl. orange nylon tow (egg yarn) with pearl flashabou on the sides

Black and Golden

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 8 (pattern originally calls for an Alec Jackson Spey hook which is not generally available)
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - golden pheasant crest feather
  • Rib - oval silver tinsel
  • Body - black goat dubbing (or antron)
  • Wings - gold pheasant rump feather
  • Hackle - natural guinea hackle beard

Brown Heron

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 1/0 - 2
  • Thread - red
  • Tag - flat silver tinsel
  • Rib - oval silver tinsel
  • Body - rear 2/3 fl. orange floss, remainder fl. orange goat dubbing
  • Hackle - grey heron hackle
  • Throat - teal flank
  • Wing - bronze mallard shoulder

Comments - Orange ram's wool or orange antron dubbing may be substituted for the orange goat. Spey hackle in heron grey may be substituted for the grey heron hackle.

Coal Tar

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2/0 - 8
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - black hackle fibers
  • Rib - fine oval silver tinsel
  • Body - 1/4 fl. fire-orange wool, 1/4 fl. red, front 1/2 - fl. black chenille
  • Wings - dyed black squirrel tail
  • Hackle - soft black hackle - hen or rooster

Fall Favorite

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 8
  • Thread - red
  • Body - flat silver tinsel
  • Wings - Orange polar bear (or bucktail)
  • Hackle - soft red hackle - hen or rooster

Fall Bright

  • Hook - Eagle Claw 1197N sizes 1/0 - 8
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - purple hackle fibers
  • Rib - med flat silver tinsel
  • Body - fl. red chenille
  • Wings - purple flashabou
  • Hackle - purple

Freight Train

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 1/0 - 8
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - purple hackle fibers
  • Body - first 1/4 - fl. fire orange wool, next quarter - fl. red wool, last half - black chenille
  • Rib - fine oval silver tinsel
  • Wings - white calf tail and pearl krystal flash
  • Hackle - soft purple hackle

Kalama Special

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 8
  • Thread - black
  • Tag - flat silver tinsel
  • Tail - red hackle fibers
  • Body - yellow wool yarn
  • Wings - white bucktail
  • Hackle - badger palmered over body

Maxwell's Purple Matuka

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 8 (pattern originally calls for an Alec Jackson Spey hook which is not generally available)
  • Thread - black
  • Rib - fine oval gold tinsel
  • Body - black goat dubbing (or antron)
  • Wings - two purple saddle hackles matuka style
  • Hackle - purple

Patricia

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 8
  • Thread - claret
  • Tag - fine flat gold tinsel
  • Tail - tail hackle fibers tied slightly upward
  • Rib - fine oval gold tinsel
  • Body - claret goat, seal or antron
  • Wings - white polar bear hair or calftail
  • Hackle - claret

Patriot

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 6
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - red hackle fibers
  • Body - yellow floss
  • Wings - white bucktail or polar bear
  • Hackle - blue

Pink Sundowner

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 6
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - fl. pink hackle fibers
  • Butt - flat silver tinsel
  • Body - fl. red wool
  • Wings - pearl krystal flash
  • Hackle - fl. pink palmered over the body
  • Collar - fl. pink saddle hackle

Polar Gibson

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 1/0 - 4
  • Thread - black
  • Tag - fine oval gold tinsel
  • Tail - gold pheasant fibers
  • Rib - fine oval gold tinsel
  • Body - rusty orange wool yarn
  • Wings - white polar bear or calftail
  • Hackle - furnace
  • Cheeks - jungle cock eyes (optional)

Polar Shrimp

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2/0- 6
  • Thread - white
  • Tag - flat silver tinsel
  • Tail - orange hackle fibers (fluorescent, if possible)
  • Body - fl. orange chenille or goat dubbing
  • Wings - white deer tail or polar bear
  • Hackle - orange, soft-fl. preferred
  • Cheeks - jungle cock eyes (optional)

Rick's Revenge

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 8 (pattern originally calls for an Alec Jackson Spey hook which is not generally available)
  • Thread - fl. orange
  • Tail - fl. red floss
  • Body - rear 1/2 fl. red floss, remainder purple goat dubbing (or seal or antron) with an oval siver rib
  • Mid Wing - fl. red floss
  • Wings - blue over white polar bear or calftail
  • Hackle - purple
  • Cheeks - jungle cock eyes (optional)

Silver Admiral

  • Hook - Eagle Claw 1197N 2 - 8
  • Thread - blach
  • Tail - fl. hot pink hackle fibers
  • Rib - flat silver tinsel
  • Body - fl. hot pink wool yarn
  • Wings - white calf tail
  • Hackle - fl. hot pink

Silver Hilton

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer sizes 2 - 8
  • Thread - black
  • Tag - flat silver tinsel
  • Tail - teal flank fibers
  • Rib - oval silver tinsel
  • Body - black chenille (originally black goat dubbing)
  • Wings -grizzly hackle tips flared
  • Hackle - teal flank

Silver Doctor

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer sizes 2 - 6
  • Thread - red
  • Body - flat silver tinsel
  • Throat - silver doctor blue hackle
  • Wings -red over yellow calftail
  • Topping - pintail flank over the wing concave down

Skunk

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer sizes 2 - 8
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - red hackle fibers
  • Body - black chenille
  • Rib - fine silver tinsel
  • Wings -white hair - polar bear or bucktail
  • Hackle - black collar

Skupade

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer sizes 4 - 6
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - natural deer hair
  • Body - black chenille
  • Wings - natural deer hair
  • Hackle - grizzly

Steelhead Coachman

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer sizes 2 - 8 (pattern originally calls for an Alec Jackson Spey hook which is not generally available)
  • Thread - black
  • Tag - fine oval silver tinsel
  • Tail - gold pheasant crest
  • Rib - fine oval silver tinsel
  • Body - peacock herl
  • Wings -white hair - polar bear
  • Hackle - mottled brown hen back
  • Cheeks - jungle cock eyes (optional)

Stewart

  • Hook - standard salmon streamer hook sizes 2 - 6
  • Thread - black
  • Tail - gold pheasant tippet fibers
  • Rib - fine oval gold tinsel
  • Body - black wool yarn
  • Wings - dyed black squirrel tail with a few strands of orange calf tail over the top
  • Hackle -black



Tiger Muslie Flies


Lefty's Deceiver

HOOK: Gamakatsu Model B10S 2/0-6

THREAD: Flourescent red single-strand floss

TAIL: White hackle fibers with pearl Accent Flash

BODY: Thread (floss)

UNDERWING: White bucktail

OVERWING: Red bucktail

THROAT: Red Accent Flash

EYES: White paint, with black pupils

Uses: One of the most famous American flies (it's been honored with its own postage stamp), Lefty's Deceiver is used primarily in saltwater. However, it is a general-purpose baitfish pattern and can be used in freshwater, too, especially in smaller sizes. When tying the fly for freshwater, save a few bucks and don't use the stainless steel hook.

Variations: There are many color variations, mostly in the wing colors: green over white; red over yellow; all white; blue over white. But in all cases, use the red Accent Flash and paint the eyes. The red imitates gills, and predatory fish focus on the gills and eyes when they attack baitfish.

Tube Demos












Mounting tubes in the HMH Tube Tool
Plastic tubes can be mounted with pin or mandrel and pressed against knife edge on tube tool to prevent spinning (top picture). Or, all tubes can be mounted within the eye of the tube tool, with or without pins or mandrel(bottom picture).


"HMH Tube Fly Guide" Click here

HMH tubes nest easily to tie any tube pattern.

  • Conventional or "Bottle Style"
  • Floating or Weighted

A-C   Tie "Bottle Style" tube flies on aluminum or copper, with or without extra weight. Metal Jackets with Micro tubing inserts.

D   Semi-Flex 1/8" OD plastic tube with Micro tube insert; uses standard coneheads or beads. Bottle Style option.

E   Rigid 1/8" OD plastic Cut-To-Length tube with rigid 3/32" cut to length tube insert. Accepts HMH Medium Custom Conehead.

F-G   Flex Tubing: 1/8" OD (left) accepts Micro tubing and most standard cones/beads. 3/16" OD (right) accepts 3/32" Cut-To-Length and HMH Medium Custom cones/beads.

H   Micro Tube, accepts most standard cones/beads if desired.

I   3/32" OD Rigid Cut-To-Length. Accepts HMH Medium Custom cones.

J   1/8" OD Rigid Cut-To-Length. Accepts HMH Large Custom cones.

How to nest HMH plastic tubes
(video coming soon)
When nesting HMH tubes there is no need for glue. Simply insert smaller tube within the larger tube leaving a bit of the smaller tube exposed. Melt back a small nipple of plastic on the tip of the exposed smaller tube using a lighter. Once cooled, pull the small tube (nipple end) inside the larger diameter tube. The nipple should be seated approximately 1/4" to 3/8" inside the larger tube (rear of fly).

Tube Fly Advantages:

Tube Flies have real advantages over conventional flies:


·       Pattern size and style aren’t dependent on hook size or style.

·       Hook can be placed further back in the pattern resulting in more hook ups.

·       Many tube choices - including weight, color, size, shape and length options.

·       Less hook leverage with shorter shank tube hook when fighting fish resulting in more landed fish.

·       Fly slides up leader and away from sharp teeth during fight.

·       If hook breaks or dulls simply replace it.

·       Many hook choices including treble, double and single.

·       Change easily from barbed or barbless.

·       Can use non stainless hooks in saltwater.

·       Incorporate cones and beads to add and adjust weight of flies.

·       Tie convertible flies – mix and match tailing material.


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